Source:
http://forums.gtrcanada.com/viewtopic.php?t=49

"This was taken from: www.rb20det.com

The following is intended for hcr32 and hnr32 owner or any car sporting the rb20det.

Vehicle model: hcr32 and hnr32
Engine type: rb20det
Displacement (cc): 1998
Combustion chamber: pent-roof type
Valve arrangement : DOHC belt drive
Bore x stroke mm: 78.0 x 69.7
Compression ratio : 8.5
Compression pressure: (kg / cm2) / (rpm) 12.0 / 300
Maximun output (net) (ps / rpm): 215 / 6400
Maximun torque (net) (kg-m / rpm): 27.0 / 3200
Fuel consumption ratio (g / GS.h) / (rpm): 215 / 2400
Dimensions m/t (l / w / h) (mm): 845x660x685
Dimensions a/t (l / w / h) (mm): 830x660x685
Idle speed (rpm): 800
Ignition timing a/t (BTDCdegrees / rpm): 15 / 650
Ignition timing m/t (BTDCdegrees / rpm): 20 / 650
Firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4
Valve clearance cold (mm) intake: 0.45 +/- 0.003
Valve clearance cold (mm) exhaust: 0.38 +/- 0.003
Throttle chamber bolts torque setting (kg-m) first stage: 0.9 - 1.1
Throttle chamber bolts torque setting (kg-m) second stage: 1.8 - 2.2
Flywheel run-out limit (mm): 0.10
Con rod nut tightening stage 1 (kg-m): 2.3 - 2.9
Con rod nut tightening stage 2(kg-m): 3.9 - 4.5

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rb20det Engine variations:

The rb20det came in two different forms, the earlier red top with the NICS system and the newer silver top version with the ECCS system. The red top is the earlier version of the rb20det and came as standard with the r31 skyline, z32 fairlady and the nissan laurel, whilst the r32 skylines and nissan cefiro came with the silver top version.

Just to confuse you more there were a few red top rb20dets with the eccs system, heres some engine power outputs.

RB20DET red top
1986-1987: 178bhp (NICS version)
1988-1989: 190bhp (ECCS version)
RB20DET silver top
1989 onwards: 215bhp

-------------------------------------------------

Resetting the rb20det ECU:

You can reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery and then pressing the brake pedal in for a minute or so, doing this tries to light up the brake lights and removes all of the voltage from the ecu, then connect it back up and go for a drive. Make sure the front wheels are straight when you do this or else the hicass can get a bit screwed up because it thinks the wheels are turning slightly.

The ECU has the mapping for the fuelling this wont change but the timing and airflow is monitored all of the time and adjusted according to conditions if you have been using low octane fuel or carried out recent mods then you'll benifit from the ECU reset as it relearns the optimum settings and changes the timing in very large increments initially then as it gets closer to being right it narrows the adjustments down.

The ignition timing is advanced until knock is detected and then pulled back in narrowing swings above and below ideal until it has narrowed it down to being ok. Once settled it almost stops learning and will use tiny adjustments each time you go out and take a lot longer to get to its ideal each time.

Part numbers for of r32 gts-t:

*Warning, this part list is in nowehere complete*

Water Pump: 21010-21U25
Thermostat: 21200-42L05
coil Packs: 22433 60u02 mcp-300124
Oil Filter Genuine Nissan: 15208-H8911
Oil Filter Ryco: Z145A
Oil Filter Valvoline: R9
Oil Capacity: 4.6L with filter (7.5w 30 is recommended)
Coolant Capacity: 9L
Manual Gearbox: 2L (80w 90)
P/s Fluid capacity, non-hicas: 1.8L
Sump washer 11026-01M02
Fuel filter 16400-53J10
Rear diff oil 1.5L
Alternator belt 11720-24U00
Cam belt 13028-20P10
PAS belt 11950-04U00
NGK standard plugs PFR5A-11 1.1mm gapped
NGK Iridium plugs T7341T-8 0.8mm gapped
Trust-Greddy Iridium plugs IT08 0.8mm gapped
Brake pads and discs for r32 gtst are the same as s13 200sx (silvia s13)
Speedo drive gearbox end 32702-58S21
Air Flow Meter 22680-02U00

Diagnostic for the rb20det ECU

The ECU is in the passenger footwell, behind the plastic kickplate to the left of your feet. You'll have to remove the computer from the mounts in the footwell, as the led/leds you'll need to see are pointing towards the front of the car. Switch on the ignition but don't start engine, the led on the ECU will begin glowing turn the selector screw clockwise all the way.

There's three types of factory ecu in Skylines, One type has two LEDs and five modes, the other type has one LED and two modes and the last type has no LEDs, the output is done with the engine check light in the instrument cluster.

For two led ecus the led will flash once, pause, flash twice, pause... all the way up to five this is the diagnostic mode Mode 1 = one flash, mode 5 = five flashes. When you reach the right mode, turn the screw back counter-clockwise. Mode 3 is what most people use.

For one led ecus wait a couple of seconds, and turn the screw back counter-clockwise, the ECU is now in mode 2 the engine check light on the dash will mirror the LED on the computer.

The led will flash out a code or series of codes if there is more than one fault More recent ECU's have two LED's red is first digit, green is second digit, eg red 2x flash, green 1x flash = code 21. The ecus on most R32's have one LED, long flash = first digit, short flash = second digit, eg long, long, short = code 21.

Codes:
11 Crankshaft position sensor
12 MAF sensor circuit
13 Coolent temperature circuit
14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit
21 Ignition circuit
31 ECU
34 Knock sensor
43 Throttle position circuit
45 Injector leak
51 Ignition circuit
54 Auto signal to ECU
55 All OK
Turn the ignition off to put the ECU back to normal.

There is also a O2 sensor test in real time available - do the above to get the ECU into mode 2 (single LED ECU) or mode 1 (2 LED ECU's) Start the engine. Warm the engine, and then run under no load at 2000 rpm for the test. Single LEDs: on = lean, off = rich Dual LED's: green LED on = lean, green LED off = rich

Remove the speed limiter:

Cut wire #53 on the ECU harness to disable the 180 kph speed cut. The wire is yellow/green with a silver trace. Insulate the bare ends with tape. There has been talk that this effects the hicass, but from what i've seen posted around the net driveability of the car is not changed.

*Warning*
If you cut wire #53 all it does it prevent you from exiting the HICAS DIAGNOSTIC modeÖ Its therefore better to place this speed cut on a switch so you can still exit easily.

rb20det eccs control unit pin layout.

1 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #1
2 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #5
3 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #3
5 engine. A/T control input signal (bt1)
6 Sub electrical fan relay (engine temp switch)
7 Tacometeter speed signal
9 AC relay (AC cut signal)
10 Ground (ign signal system)
11 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #6
12 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #2
13 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #4
14 engine. a/t control input sigal (bt2)
15 engine. a/t control input sigal (bt3)
16 ECCS relay
18 fuel pump relay
19 Power steering switch
20 Ground (ignition signal system)
21(RX) Receive (control unit data reception)
22 (TX) Transmit (data sent from control unit)
23 Detonation sensor 1 (cyl 1-3)
24 Detonation sensor 2 (cyl 4-6)
26 Air flow meter ground
27 Air flow meter intake air quantity signal
28 Engine temp sensor
29 Exhaust gas sensor
30 Sensor ground (throttle sen, ENG temp)
31 clock (synchronization signal)
32 Monitor and check lamp (red)
38 Throttle opening output
41 Crank angle sensor (120degree signal)
42 Crank angle sensor (1 degree signal)
43 Ignition switch START signal
44 Neutral switch
45 Ignition switch (IGN)
46 AC switch
47 (CHK) Check (diagnosis activation)
48 Throttle sensor power supply
49 Control unit power supply
50 Ground (control unit)
51 Crank angle sensor (120 degree signal)
52 Crank angle sensor (1 degree signal)
53 Vehicle speed sensor
54 Throttle valve switch (idle connection pt)
56 Throttle sensor output signal
57 Throttle valve switch power supply
58 Battery power supply
59 Control unit power supply
60 Ground (control unit)
101 Injector #1
103 Injector #3
104 Fuel pump terminal voltage control output
105 Injector #2 107 Injector ground
108 Injector ground
109 Injector power supply
110 Injector #5
112 Injector #4
114 Injector #6
115 exhaust gas sensor heater ground
116 injector ground

http://www.rb20det.com/ecupinout.jpg

Eprom maps:

This could become this most helpful section yet! Here i will try to will build a list of eprom files for download, if you have blank eproms and a rom writer you'll beable to download these files and blow your own eproms.

Its the standard eprom info, right click and save as the below link to download file: http://www.rb20det.com/standard.bin

Here are some links to rom editors for your ecu, some of the text is in japanese so you'll have to use a translater, but its worth the effort.

http://www.925style.com/editor_direct.html
http://www.boostcruising.com/silvia/eprom.asp
http://ww5.enjoy.ne.jp/~seiya.z31/rom_tune.html

Guide" to replace the top front suspension arm:

Firstly you will need a set of bushes (normally they come complete for both arms) and access to a press, or if you can a second hand arm, which will do ok as they are normally going to be better than yours (range in price N.Z.$30.00 - $60.00). Just check the bushes before you purchase. Then you can change the bushes at your own leisure instead of right here right now and still be mobile.

Secondly get your tools you will need.
1. Jack
2. Wheel brace
3. Axle stand(s)
4. 17mm spanner
5. 17mm socket
6. Ratchet
7. Power bar (for throwing at cat)
8. Short extension
9. Hammer (for gentle persuasions)

Disassembling
First thing jack car up and take wheel off donít forget the axle stand(s) as we donít want Missus or Mum finding you squished under car. Now you need to go into engine compartment and locate 4 nuts on the rear of the suspension tower (1 has a plastic loom holder covering it) loosen almost until they are off, then go back to inner guard. Located at the top of the suspension is two bolts, you will need your spanner and socket to undo the one closest to you and gently tap out, then the arm will need to be tapped down until free (no job should be started without a hammer) Go back to engine compartment and persuade the 4 nuts (yes you get to use the hammer again) until free then undo remaining thread (watch out for feet) the plate that was attached to the suspension tower should be completely free. Undo remaining nut & bolt and you should have the top arm in your hand.

Press out the old bushes and press in the new ones, or if you have opted for the pre-used way you are now ready to begin re-assembling.

Re-assembling
First of all attach top assembly arm to backing plate, make sure to use the bolt-labelled 9B (marked at the top of bolt) the other being labelled 9 and re-attach the backing plate to suspension tower. Now for the tricky part, you need to push and twist the rest of the suspension together all the time having the remaining bolt at your finger tip ready to push in as you are twisting it (you may have to get somebody to help youÖmaybe your Mummy). Once itís in just check all nuts are tight, place wheel back on and whilst car is still in the air check to see if there is any movement in the top arm by grasping wheel and moving up and down (you need to be quite firm when doing this) if no movement in bushes sweet as (if yes hell I donít know pay somebody to do it).

Z32 afm: Wiring and info to fit to rb20det.

http://www.rb20det.com/z32afm.jpg

Z32 connections are marked A to F but only four connections are used when fitting to the rb20det.
This wiring diagram is based on fitting a z32 afm to a r32 gts-t.
A: Blank off
B: connect to Black wire
C: connect to black/silver
D: connect to white
E: connect to black with white trace
F: Blank off
A Z32 AFM will support up to 450 BHP with the correct supporting mods, it has a 80mm diameter and you'll need the eprom remapped to suit.

Plug cover modification:

For better cooling of the head and to keep the coil packs cool and prevent misfiring its best to remove the plug cover.
The only problem is that the ignition amplifier is mounted on the plug cover so you'll have to cut the plug cover so as to leave the part for mounting the ignition amplifier.

Click picture for full size picture to see how to do did it.


http://www.rb20det.com/cgi-bin/i/plugcover.jpg
http://www.rb20det.com/cgi-bin/i/plugcover1.jpg
http://www.rb20det.com/cgi-bin/i/plugcover2.jpg
http://www.rb20det.com/cgi-bin/i/plugcover3.jpg

ECCS Component parts

Component part | Type | Installation postion
injector | elevation resistor type | intake manifold
fuel pump | electronic. turbine type | fuel tank
aac valve | solenoid type | collector
ignition coil | small mould type | cylinder head
power transistor unit |6 channel electronic distribution | rocker cover
crank angle sensor | photocell type (auto camshaft) | cylinder head left bank front
air flow meter | hot wire type | front left
throttle sensor | variable resistor type | throttle chamber
throttle valve switch | switch | throttle chamber
engine temperature sensor | thermistor type | water outlet
exhaust gas sensor | zirconium type (no heater) | exhaust outlet
detonation sensor | pressure-electrical type | cylinder block right side

http://www.rb20det.com/eccscomponentparts.jpg

rb20det air flow meter pinout

http://www.rb20det.com/afmpinoutpic.jpg

http://www.rb20det.com/afmpin123.jpg

rb20det ehaust gas sensor diagram/pinout

http://www.rb20det.com/exhaustgassensordiagram.gif

Testing coil packs

http://www.rb20det.com/testcoilpack.gif

Coil pack maintanance:

Over time the coil pack contact points (where they connect to the spark plugs) will get fouled causing numerous rought running problems from high rpm misfire to rought idle, so bearing this in mind its a good idea to check and clean them. First off be very careful with the coils pack when removing and cleaning, it took me 2 hours to do this job spending about 20 minutes on each coil pack.
1: carefully remove coil pack 1 at a time.
2: carefully remove the rubber boot from the coil pack.
3: inspect boot and clean, replace if needed.
4: use 600 grit (very fine) sand paper to gently clean contact point.
5: refit rubber boot making sure its firmly attached.
6 refit coil pack.

Fit an oil cooler:

Heres a list of what parts used:

oil filter cooler adapter For spin-on 3/4UNF filter- tapped1/2BSP with built in 80o thermostsat
1/2BSP for 1/2 hose fittings male x2
1/2 id- per metre stainless steel braided hose x2
COOLER 19ROW 230MM 1/2BSP MALE
1/2BSP for 1/2 hose Female 90o fitting x2

Heres how it was fitted:
1. Drain oil and remove oil filter.
2. Attach adapter plate where the oil filter was.
3. Reattach oil filter on top of adapter.
4. Connect oil hoses to adapter.
5. Remove drivers side headlight.
6. Slot oil cooler into the postion you want.
7. Work out where the mounting brakets will best attach.
8. Fabricate brackets and attach.
9. Mount oil cooler to brackets.
10. Attach oil hoses to cooler.
11. Refill with oil.
12 Run engine for a few mins then recheck oil level, add more oil if needed and check for leaks.
13 Celerbrate!! or fix leaks.

http://www.rb20det.com/cgi-bin/i/oilcoolermocal3.jpg
http://www.rb20det.com/cgi-bin/i/oilcoolermocal.jpg
http://www.rb20det.com/cgi-bin/i/oilcoolermocal1.jpg
http://www.rb20det.com/cgi-bin/i/oilcoolermocal2.jpg

Brake upgrade for the r32 gtst:

This is a conversion i've just finished on my own car, to do the conversion you'll need the following:
1. Two front calipers from an r33 gtst
2. Two front discs (296mm X 30mm) also from an r33 gtst
3. Brake pads to suit
4. Slightly longer brake lines for both sided...(i forgot to measure but you'll see when you do the conversion)

Then all you do is literally bolt the new discs and calipers on and hey presto big brakes on a budget, its also been said that the r32 gtr discs and calipers will bolt straight onto an r32 gtst giving you 330mm X 32mm discs but since i've not tried this myself i'm not 100% sure.

Fitting an oil catch tank

http://www.rb20det.com/fittingacatchtank.gif


That's it for tonight folks! All the info came from: http://www.rb20det.com
The owner can be reach at: me@4wheelsfast.com"